Page 67 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Textile & Handloom Related Theory for Exercise 1.4.36&37
Shawl Weaving Artisan - Defects and Yarn Quality

Yarn numbering system

Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• explain yarn numbering system
• list types of yarn numbering system, (direct system of yarn)
• list indirect system of yarn numbering
• convert yarn count from indirect to indirect system
• convert yarn count form direct to direct system
• convert yarn count from indirect to direct system
• convert yarn count from direct to indirect system
• explain reed count, dents per linear space and stockport reed.

Yarn numbering system Denier (D) 9000 meters No. of grams
Yarn count: Count is a numerical value, which express Decitex (dtex) 10,000 meters No. of grams
the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn and Militext (mtex) 1000 meters No. of milligrams
also indicate the relationship between length and weight
(the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass) Kilotext (ktex) 1000 meters No. of kilograms
of that yarn. Therefore, the concept of yarn count has Jute count 14,400 yards No. of pounds
been introduced which specifies a certain ratio of length Grex count 10,000 meters No. of grams
to weight.
Linen count 14,400 yards No. of pounds
Types of yarn numbering system
1 Tex (Universal yarn numbering system)
1 Direct yarn numbering system
Tex system of yarn numbering system is called as
2 Indirect yarn numbering system universal yarn numbering system. This system comes
Direct yarn numbering system [mass/unit length]: under direct yarn numbering system and it is introduced
Direct yarn numbering system also known as mass per by International standard organization (ISO) and textile
unit length of yarn, hence in this system higher the yarn scientists of various organization, manufactures and
number or count indicates the coarser or thicker the yarn technologists. This system is applicable to yarn made
size and smaller the yarn number or count indicates the from both natural fibers as well as synthetic fibers. Hence
finer or lighter the yarn size. This system is generally used this system is useful for replacing the several different
for Tex and Denier. In direct yarn numbering system the systems which are being used in the various sectors of
count directly express the size of the yarn and a coarser the textile industry all over the world. Tex system can be
yarn will have a higher number while a finer yarn will used from fiber to yarn process. For fineness of cord,
have a lower number. The resultant count of the folded wire, ropes and sliver etc. are expressed in terms of
yarn can be easy to calculate even component threads kilotex that is the weight of the material in kg in one km
are of different counts. Cloth setting are comparative length but for the fineness of fiber it can be expressed in
difficult in this system. And we cannot easily calculate terms of millitex that is weight of fiber in mg (milligrams)
the weight of the fabric and Calculation of the amount of in one km (kilometer) length. The advantages and
twist in the yarn. drawbacks of direct system of yarn numbering are also
applicable to universal system.
The following formula is used to calculate the direct yarn
count: In shortly,
W x l Tex is defined as the weight of yarn in grams per 1000
N =
L meter of yarns or 1 km length.
Where,
i.e., wt. in grams per 1000 meters of yarn.
N = Yarn count or number system
1000 x Weight in gram’s
W = Weight of the sample at the official regain in the Tex =
units of the system Length in meter’s
L = Length of the sample
Example: 30 Tex indicates that 1000 meters of yarn
L = Units of length of sample weight 30 grams.

Numbering Units of Units of
system length(1) weight(W)
Tex system (Tex) 1000 meters No. of grams

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